WATER: Preventing Thirsty Plants

I admit it.  There have been more than a few plants under my charge that have bit the dust from lack of the life-giving liquid.  In addition to terrariums, there are also other ways to make plants a little more self-sustaining.

Aqua Globes.  Or anything of the sort.  I got a couple for Christmas one year, and they work pretty well.  They come in a variety of sizes for different-sized plants, ranging from $10 to $25.  Basically all you do is fill them with water (which takes a little patience, as I always had to barely turn on the faucet and let it dribble down into the globe…), and stick them in the plant’s soil.  Depending on the plant’s thirst, I found the globes help with watering for two (or three?) weeks. 

DIY Self-Watering… Devices.  You can buy self-watering plants online for upwards of $200 (because they’re artsy?), but it’s super easy to make your own out of a 2-liter pop bottle.  Instructables.com has some pretty awesome (and easy to follow) steps to do said project.  

There are also other wick-watering DIY projects out there to try.  I once did one that involved braiding nylon stockings together, and stringing it from the bottom of the pot into a container that the pot sat on.  A word of advice: the material the wick is made of DOES matter.  The nylon absorbed way too much water, and I had a dead, drowned plant by the end.  I’m curious to see how cotton T-shirt material, like the tutorial uses, would work…   

Of course, the only downside of these self-watering devices is getting a little too comfortable with the convenience they provide.  Note from experience: Just because they help out for a little while doesn’t mean you’re off the hook for good.  I’ve had a few times where I’ll painstakingly fill an Aqua Globe, be all proud, set it in a plant, and forget about it for two months.  No wonder the plant ends up looking a little sad…

Forcing Bulbs: Beat the Winter Doldrums

I realize we are finally on the cusp of spring here in Iowa, but today I was thinking about forcing some bulbs this fall/winter.  It sounds like a really interesting process, and essentially what it does is trick the plant into thinking it’s already gone through winter, so it blooms in the dead of real winter.

THIS link is to a most excellent article about it by the University of Minnesota Extension Office.  Tulips, narcissus (daffodils), hyacinths, and crocus are all popular bulbs to force, and I may even try my hand at an iris or two (they’re my favorite flower).

You’ll have to read through the article to get the whole picture, but the whole forcing process is actually pretty simple; just very time-consuming.  It takes about 15 weeks (~4 months) to prep the bulbs for a winter show.  You start by purchasing the bulbs you would like to force (and you can even mix different kinds in the same pot, as seen in the picture below).  

Plant them in a container with soil, putting them very close together, and leaving their tops exposed.  Put a little more dirt on top of them, and water thoroughly. 

From there, the chilling starts.  Usually you can stick the pots in an unheated basement or attic, or even a bottom section of your fridge (just remember to keep it away from other fruits and veggies; funky chemical reactions will ensue). Throughout the chilling period, check up on the plants once in a while, as the soil needs to remain damp.  

When the tips of the bulbs are green, it’s ready to get them acclimated to warmer temperatures.  Some prefer a more transitional period (50 to 60 degrees, some like darkness for a few days…), but others you can just go ahead and stick right in the sun. 

After a bulb has been forced, its energy is depleted.  It has to be tossed (which depresses me greatly), never to share its happiness again.  On the link mentioned above, they say something about Amaryllis being able to regenerate and be used year after year.  I feel like that’s something to look into eventually, as well…

Forcing bulbs can also be done with just water.  It’s pretty much the same process, minus dirt (and the addition of a sophisticated and specially-designed glass container). 

Now I just need to remember this for this fall…

Color is a Good Thing: Flowering House Plants

This entry is semi-related to an earlier entry about the best houseplants for small spaces.  Only this time, it’s all about the flowers.  Having a flowering plant in the house can brighten your mood on a dreary day, and they’re definitely more interesting to watch (in my opinion) than a standard green plant.

Hibiscus- This is one of my all-time favorite flowers, mainly because they look so tropical and big.  At one of my past workplaces, there was a hibiscus plant in the lobby that was taller than I am.  If not pruned, these plants can indeed grow up to 6 feet tall (or more?!).  Otherwise, they can be kept as a bush-type evergreen.  Blooms (which can get up to 8 inches across) last from 2-3 days, and usually they’re in fairly rapid succession. 

Christmas Cactus- My mother used to have one of these when I was growing up.  It never bloomed around Christmas, though.  A Christmas Cactus isn’t really a cactus; it’s actually just a succulent (the difference being how often they’re watered).  Getting a Christmas Cactus to bloom takes a certain combination of conditions at the right times.  Ideally, you forget about it for a month or so (little or no water), then water thoroughly for a month, then “summer” conditions (more sun), then decrease daylight hours, watering, and temperature again for it to bloom.  (While it blooms, you can bring it up to regular temperature and water normally.)  Essentially, you forget about it for a few months, then feel sorry for it.  It will repay your forgetfulness with blooms.

African Violet- Gardening websites say this is an easy houseplant to grow.

… I’ve killed two of them already.

Anyways, African Violets don’t need too much special care (though you can buy special African Violet soil and fertilizer); the only big thing to remember is to never get water on the leaves, as those spots will turn brown.  (Then if enough of the leaf is brown, the whole thing eventually dies…)  It is possible to water them from the top, but I would say to water them from the bottom.  (Submerge the bottom of the container in a shallow dish of water for a few hours, then take it out again to prevent root rot.)  Ideally, African Violets love high heat and humidity, with indirect sunlight.  At home, we kept ours in the bathroom (it’s usually the warmest room in the house, and it likes the steam from the shower.)  Some people say that these should be repotted every few years, but I’ve also heard others say that they can stay in the same container for their whole life (recommending a 4-inch pot). 

Orchids- About three years ago, I bought an orchid from Wal-Mart as a Mother’s Day gift.  The instructions that came with it said to water once a week with two or three ice cubes.  Mother did that faithfully, and it still blooms today.  The flowers on our orchid (of the Phalaenopsis variety) last for months at a time.  Buy flowering orchids from a store; it can take up to 5 years for a seedling to produce a flower.   

Basic Herbs

Once upon a time I remember there being some sort of very half-hearted herb garden container thingy in our house (that only lasted a few weeks before being sentenced to exile outside due to neglect).  It was a windowsill container with three or four different cooking herbs in it, and I distinctly remember the smell of the basil.  Even when it was mostly dead, it had a very strong smell.

Herbs have always fascinated me.  They do so much to enhance foods’ flavor.  They also seem relatively easy to grow, as Pinterest is littered with ideas for cute containers to grow herbs in in your own kitchen. 

Basil- The spice cabinet in our kitchen says that basil is the tomato’s best friend.  You can use it in soups and pasta dishes, on pizzas, or anything suggesting tomato.  It’s also a good garnish for salads.  The leaves can either be used freshly cut, and can also be frozen or dried.  Basil usually gets from 1-2 feet tall, and can start harvesting (from seed) within 4-5 weeks, with peak harvest between 8 and 12 weeks.  It is also an annual (read: I’m already bracing for its eminent death). 

Oregano- I see this being used in pizza, Mediterranean dishes, and anything else basil is involved in.  Unlike basil, however, oregano is a perennial.  I would suggest using Greek variety of oregano, as common oregano is bland and not as good for cooking.  You can start cutting the leaves to use in dishes when the plant is about 6 inches tall.

Rosemary- Like an evergreen shrub, rosemary is great on basically any kind of meat, as well as potatoes and pasta.  (Note: there are trailing varieties, as well.) You cut off the tips of the shoots, and cook it from there, essentially.  Rosemary shrubs can be anywhere from 2 feet to 6 feet tall, so choose varieties carefully!  It’d probably be best to buy a good-sized one from a nursery, as they grow very slow, as well (they are also a perennial). 

Thyme- This is yet another herb with almost limitless seasoning possibilities, and also a perennial.  These are just itty bitty- only 3-12 inches tall.  The leaves can be used in cooking both whole or chopped. 

One thing I’ve found about all four of these: For maximum results, pinch the plants’ flowers before they have a chance to bloom in order to keep the plant from “going to seed” or what have you (taking the focus away from growing awesome seasoning to being pretty, essentially).  You can also dry the leaves of all of these plants for later use.  (This is done by several different methods; I prefer to hang them upside-down for a few days.  Other people cook them in the microwave for a few minutes, and others just leave them out in the sun for a few days.)

Vegetables: Eating Indoor Gardening?!

This summer will be the first time I’ve had to buy all my own groceries, and live apartment-style.  (I can’t tell you how excited I am to get out of the dorms and off the meal plan…)

And with that, why not try my hand at growing my own food?

…. I can see so many things going wrong with this.

In the past, my experience has dealt mainly with flowers and indoor houseplant container-type gardening.  Growing stuff that I’ll actually consume is daunting.  I am by no means any type of “foodie”; Google is my friend, and recipes are usually followed to the letter.  So why am I trying this?  It’s another experiment! Yay!

So I’ve done some research, and these plants are ones I’m most interested in growing this summer.  They also all look fairly easy to take care of.

First up, tomatoes.  The rest of my family is mad about them, but I’m not a big fan.  The internet says it’s ridiculously easy to grow them, though you may need a grow light to get substantial produce.  Cherry or plum tomato varieties work best for indoors, because they produce a large(r ) amount of fruit and ripen quickly.  If anything, just remember to choose a smaller variety that isn’t quite so spreading like outdoor tomatoes.  It usually takes 8-14 weeks for a tomato plant (grown from seed) to produce fruit (the length of time depends on the cultivar).  (Usually what our family does is buy an almost mature plant from a nursery…)

Peppers.  Both bell and jalapeño peppers work nicely.  No one in my family habitually eats peppers, but the food I’ve had with them in have been amazing.  They can be grilled up, used in soup, you name it.  Bell peppers can be anywhere from 6-36 inches high, and 18-24 inches wide once grown.  Depending on the variety, it can take 8-12 weeks to mature. 

Peas.  Honestly, growing up this was the only veggie that I liked from the garden.  I was a pro at harvesting them, and eventually even figured out how to properly nuke them in the microwave to get them from garden to plate.  There are three main types of peas: Green, Snap, & Sugar.  The vining varieties get huge, but there are also bush varieties!  (Joy to the world, it is possible to grow them indoors!)  Usually bush types range from 1-3 feet tall.  The Internet recommends the Tom Thumb variety, which is actually only 8 inches tall.  It takes about 7 weeks for this particular variety, and others vary from 7-10 weeks.

And finally, spinach.  I prefer spinach over lettuce because it’s sweeter, and lasts longer in the fridge.  This one looks the simplest to grow; all you do is sow the seeds, have basic care, and 4-6 weeks later you can eat the leaves already.  Great for my lack of patience.  :]

Indoor Plants: Best of

Whew, it’s been a while.  There’s been lots of adventures happening at school, so I apologize.

So over Easter I went back home.  My sister had also just gotten back from Florida the day before, and she gave me a palm plant as a gift from her travels!

… When did she get nice?

Anyways, it’s a Neanthe Bella Palm, Chamaedorea elegans, otherwise known in my world as a Parlor Palm.

And I have to giggle, because I’ve had one since junior year of high school.  Remember that terrarium I talked about in a previous entry?  I had included a palm about the same size of the one Karen gave me in it, not realizing it could get so big.

Fast forward to today, four and a half years later, and it’s a bush.

This got me thinking.  Palms seem so cute when they’re little, but they grow.  And grow, and grow.  What kinds of plants are better for more permanent small-space living arrangements?

Pothos- Pothos are a super-hardy trailing vine plant that tolerates forgetting to be watered (… multiple times…), and doesn’t really care where you put it.  The vines can reach up to 40 feet long in the wild jungle, but in containers are usually limited to about 10 feet.  You can also prune them occasionally.  They’re fun to drape around windows, and add a touch of green to a room.

Peace lily- Also relatively easy to take care of.  I like their funny white flower things (research says they’re called “spathes”), though they never really turned out when I grew them.  They prefer indirect light (their leaves turn brown if they’re in the sun too long… kind of like a vampire), and some have quite a personality when it comes to watering.  Once upon a time, we had a peace lily that drooped and looked like it was going to die every time it was thirsty (~once a week).  Then once you watered it, it was fine again.    

Snakeplant (aka Mother-In-Law’s Tongue)- I’ve never grown one of these, as they honestly kind of freak me out.  Along with the other plants on this list, they’re super easy to take care of, and are tolerant of pretty much any light. 

Spider Plant- (side note: I’m diggin’ the velvet sheet in the photo… someone put way too much effort into taking a picture of a plant.  But I digress…) I also haven’t tried growing this one, but I walk past one daily on my way to class.  Spider plants also aren’t picky when it comes to water/lighting, and are super easy to propagate.  Baby Spider Plants grow from the vines that hang down from the main plant, and all you have to do is carefully detach them from the vine and plant them (root-side down, of course). 

And the great thing about all four of these plants is that they’re at the top of the list for plants known to improve indoor air quality.  Yay healthy air!

Terrariums: How-To

Terrariums.  They're pretty to look at, and even more awesome because they're super low maintenance.  Plus, they're ridiculously easy (and -dare I say it?- fun!) to make.  Your friends will all be jealous of your wicked awesome gardening skills once they see you've made these awesome-looking things (or at least you'll be impressed by your own mad gardening skills). :]  

If you have some sort of glass or plastic container, you can make one.  Old coffee pots, aquarium containers, even mason jars or part of an old pop bottle will do.  People's definitions of "terrarium" can vary wildly; some house animals (called "vivariums"), and others are just pretty places to put plants (and you still have to care for them as usual). 

I tend to stick with the utilitarian version of the terrarium that's completely closed off from the rest of the world.  It acts as its own mini-ecosystem:  The plants release water vapor into the air, which condenses on the sides of the terrarium and trickles back into the soil, feeding the plant and continuing the cycle.  Set it up once, and you don't have to do anything with the plants for at least a few months.

Of course, terrariums don't have to be completely sealed.  I'm assuming that they work the same way as closed, only less water is able to condense on the sides of the container.  This makes partially-open containers great for succulents and other low-moisture plants.    

I want succulents some day......

And terrariums are ridiculously simple to make!   

You need:

• A container of some sort (old fishbowls, cookie jars, aquariums, etc. work really nicely)
• Gravel for drainage (I like using the fish tank gravel available at Walmart)
• Dirt (the kind you need usually varies with the types of plants you're using, but whatever you do, don't take dirt from your backyard.  That has microorganisms in it that can royally screw up things and cause mold to grow in your terrarium.)
• Activated charcoal  (also in the fish section at Walmart)  (I've lived without using this, but it helps to prevent rot in the terrarium.)
• Plants would also be nice... When you pick them out, keep in mind that they should all need similar growing conditions (all tropical, all desert, etc.).  You should also think about how much room they need for roots, and how fast they'll grow (the slower, the better!).  I started a parlor palm in my first terrarium four years ago, and it has since graduated to a real pot and it about 6 times bigger than when it fit in a fish tank.  

To start, spread ~1/2 inch to 1 inch of gravel at the bottom of your chosen container, and put some activated charcoal over top of that (it doesn't need a whole lot; probably about 1/4 of an inch if I had to put a number on it).    

Layer the dirt on top of the charcoal and gravel.  Fill the container up to a little under where you'd eventually like the "dirt line" to be, and save the rest for a little later...

Plant your plants!  If your container is big enough, feel free to lay out the plants on top of the soil before digging them in and getting them settled in the terrarium.  Believe me, it's a heck of a lot easier to lay them out ahead of time than decide after two or three are already planted that you'd like to re-arrange the whole deal.  

Once the plants are in place, fill in around the plants with your remaining soil to ensure the roots are completely covered.  After that's done, water the plants!  I always get nervous doing this, because there is a fine line between having enough moisture (when you first move plants, you usually have to soak the daylights out of them...), and going way overboard.  If there's too little, the plants will die.  If there's too much, the extra water will sit at the bottom of the tank, causing the roots to rot, and the plants will die.  No pressure or anything...  Just kidding.  It really isn't that hard to judge, just make sure to use some common sense. :]

Then if you plan to completely seal your container, go for it now!  When I used fish tanks, I liked to seal it with saran wrap and some clear tape.

Now find your new terrarium a nice place to live, and you're done!  If it's a tropical plant terrarium, they like a lot of sun (so a south-facing window would be best) and heat.  

Hints

• If there is a ridiculous amount of condensation on the inside of the terrarium, don't worry (... yet).  It can take a few days for the mini-ecosystem to fall into balance.  If, however, the condensation continues, give the terrarium a little ventilation (poke holes in the saran wrap, crack the lid, etc.).  You can also move it to a more indirectly sunny location, to slow down the uber-efficient photosynthesis that was causing too much water in the first place.
• Lots of people use moss as ground cover when they make terrariums.  (and it looks adorable!)  The only time I've ever used it was a major fail (I used the wrong kind), but I'd still like to try again sometime.  Moss Acres is one website I stumbled across that you can order moss from.
• Decorations are awesome!  The last terrarium I did was called the "Hundred Acre Wood", and I found some cute little Winnie the Pooh figurines laying around to put in it.

Hundred Acre Wood, complete with reflection from the window  behind the camera

• Have fun with it!  There are a million different plants and containers you can use for terrariums.  They're mainly used for their aesthetic pleasantness, so make something you will enjoy looking at. :]  

And there ya go, folks.  That's my experience with terrariums, and I hope to make another in the near future. They're fun, pretty, simple, and last a long time with very little effort.  Try it for yourself, and see what you think!

(PS- Happy Valentine's Day!  It also happens to be my 20th birthday... thought you outta know. :) )